(Kathleen Manson)

Alongside the Hindu deities are sexually explicit figures that shock modern sensibilities. As you walk through the 22 temples that stand today, you do wonder about the significance of the carvings. But despite neraly two centuries of soul-searching, the inspiration behind the erotic structures is not very clear. There are many theories. Some say the Rajput king, alarmed by his subjects' hermitic lifestyle, built the temples to lure them to worldly desires. The guides at the complex, however, propound that the Chandelas were believers of occult tantrik philosophy, which holds that gratification of earthly desires takes you a step closer to realising the infinite. Due to the sexual nature of the carvings, these have often been referred to as the Kamasutra temple, but they do not exactly illustrate the meticulous positions described by Vatsayan.

Stories Unknown: Exquisite wall paintings in Orchha (left) depicts the rich legacay of the age and Khajuraho’s (right) temple art mesmerises tourists (Kathleen Manson)

The small village of Orchha in the Tikamgarh district is a great place to halt for a night or two. Surrounded by 17th-century palaces and temples, the village stands atop a hill, with a breathtaking view of River Betwa and a deserted valley. The village is animated in the afternoon by the colourful spices and vegetable market, and the sounds of chanting from the temples. There are many hotel rooms facing the temples, for that ethereal view. The Laxmi Narayan temple, about 2 km outside Orchha, is worth a visit, if only for its beautiful wall paintings.

The town closest to Orchha is Jhansi, about 15 km away, from where you can take a train to Gwalior. The city is not really inviting - it is congested and polluted. There are few decent hotels, and the food is too spicy. But as you walk up the steep road that leads to the Gwalior fort, the fortress built by Raja Man Singh Tomar, you realise why providence has brought you here. There are striking rock-cut Jain sculptures here, sculpted almost into the mountain - the largest being about 17 metres high. The fortress, which overlooks the city, surrounds several palaces - most of them in ruins except for the main palace - gives the place an eerie sense of desolation. There are two temples in the vicinity, keeping up the tradition of intricate art of the area.

Closer to the heart of the city is the Jai Vilas Palace, patterned on the Palais de Versailles in France that combines Tuscan, Italian and Corinthian styles of architecture. While the descendants of the Scindia dynasty - who have been in the forefront of Indian politics since the early 1960s - still occupy the palace, a few rooms have been converted into a museum. The Scindia Museum, named after the dynasty that ruled Gwalior till Independence, is known for its collection of miniature paintings and weapons. But after the entrancing art of Khajuraho and the colours of Orchha, the museum offers very little excitement.

(Businessworld Issue 09-15 Dec 2008)